Torrie's@Wilson's, Washington, D.C.

After teaching undergraduates for years, I've developed a lack of tolerance for the present younger generation's use of "amazing" as their only non-obscene adjective and modifier. Consequently, there are very, very few things that qualify as "amazing" in my worldview experience. And, I think I found such a place here in Washington.

A couple of weeks ago, I was exploring the Georgia Avenue strip near Howard University to see what there was to see on a Sunday evening. Down at V Street near the HU Hospital, there's a place that's been there maybe ten years, long enough to be established, but not old enough to be one of the overrated "institutions" we have so many of in this neighborhood. This place is called Torrie's@Wilson's, and it's a place anyone who likes "comfort foods" should put on their radar screen.

The food here is "Low Country Southern Cuisine." I asked the waitress for recommendations. She first offered up the whiting (a fried fish), and not seeing me jump with enthusiasm, added, "and the shortribs are sorta good." So, I got the shortribs. And what came was nothing short of amazing.

The beef was more than falling-off-the-bone tender. It was flavorful and succulent. There was a lot of it. And the whole mess had been simmering in some of the most delicious brown gravy I've ever had, so good that I wanted to pick up my empty plate and lick it clean.

Along with my shortribs I got some tasty potato salad and some excellent collard greens. The waitress said the collards are not flavored with meat; they were full flavored yet not heavy; they had a bit of pepperiness to them still; there was a bit of a butter flavor. I think they're the best collards I've had in town.


Desserts—mostly cakes—line the counter in covered footed cakestands, and I wanted a piece of something. I was way too full, though, from all that delicious dinner, and I just didn't have room.

A couple of days later, I had to go back to see if this restaurant was for real. It is. This time, I opted for the barbecued pork ribs. The ribs were freshly smoked, and had a bright pink color to them. They were very good, though not "amazing" as the shortribs had been. My one complaint about the pork ribs is that they were floating in a plateful of sauce. Good sauce, mind you, but I'd have preferred less on the plate and then a little bottle on the side to supplement as needed. I got the collard greens again, and they are still amazing. I can't quite figure out the je ne sais quoi that gives them their special flavor. For my second side, I got the macaroni and cheese. It had a nice cheddar taste and the pasta still had a little "tooth" to it. Then for dessert, I got the sweet potato pie. It was a big piece with a candied yam taste to it. The bottom pastry wasn't quite fully cooked, but the sweet potato part made up for it.


Is there a down side? Well, yes, there's one little thing. They have brewed sweet tea, but they don't have any unsweetened iced tea. I've had to drink Diet Pepsi both times I went there.

So, you must go to this place. The food is great. The hardest thing about it, though, is their hours. They close early, about 5:30, most days, then stay open "late" on Friday and Saturdays until 8 p.m. But, on Friday and Saturday nights, they reopen at 1 a.m. and stay open til breakfast to serve the after-club crowds. Soul food items start at 11 a.m. and they do breakfast until 2 p.m. Prices are very reasonable here, too!

I'm going back to this place several more times because there are a lot of things I still want to try on their dinner menu, not to mention trying out their breakfasts.