Oceanaire Seafood Room, Washington, D.C.

Wow.

Tonight I had what I believe was the best fish I've had in decades, if not ever. Leo and I went to the Oceanaire Seafood Room this evening for a Restaurant Week dinner, and both of us were quite favorably impressed with the place. It was a challenge to get in this week....our reservations weren't until 10 p.m.

We showed up a half hour early on the off chance that we might get a table before ten. It didn't happen; the restaurant was packed. We waited in the bar, sitting at the bar itself. Leo had a "Bye Bye" mai tai and then later a local creation called an "Orange Cloud," made of orange vodka, triple sec, and just a splash of sour served in an oversized martini glass with a sugared rim. I was more traditional, having a Dubonnet on the rocks with a splash and a twist, and then a kir royale.

Our table in the main dining room had a banquette along a low, smooth mahogany partition. The entire decor resembled the dining rooms on a cruise ship, and the restaurant's mascot, a swordfish, made an appearance on the walls in several forms from whole fish to prints to the cocktail glasses.

Once we had placed our orders, an assistant brought us a great big, tall, crusty loaf of bread and a relish tray that included a ramekin full of pickled whitefish. Meanwhile, I'd talked our waiter into letting me do a three course meal of soup, salad, and entree, instead of first course, entree, dessert, allowing me not to feel guilty while trying to "diet." My house salad with green goddess dressing arrived quickly.





We both had the New England clam chowder. Leo particularly liked it, commenting on the smoky flavor from the bacon, and he actually ate the whole bowl of soup, which is not something he usually does. With my salad and soup courses, I had a glass of Dom Reverdy-Ducroux Sancerre "Beau Roy" 2005 from the Loire region of France. It tasted round and fruity, and I suspect it is made from sauvignon blanc grapes. Leo had a French 75 cocktail that was actually pretty tasty (especially after the waiter came back with the bottle of champagne to float a pour on top of the other ingredients in the cognac-lemon juice mix—he'd forgotten earlier).

Next came the highlight of the evening: the fish main courses. Leo chose the grilled mahi-mahi, served with caramelized onions and blue cheese butter on top. He was a bit surprised that the fish turned out to be really spicy on the outside, but he ended up liking the dish quite a bit. His French 75 was a little too citrusy and sweet for the spicy fish, but he discovered that my red wine matched up perfectly with his fish, so he kept drinking from my wine glass.



I chose the Maine lemon sole in brown butter. It had a simple preparation, sort of meuniere with lots of brown butter and a goodly helping of pickled capers. The large fillet was perfectly cooked and the fish was actually almost what one might call "juicy." The nuttiness of the brown butter and the piquant edge of the capers perfectly set off the fish. I can't think of another lemon sole preparation at any restaurant that has been better. If only all fish could be this exquisite! With the sole I drank a glass of Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Noir 2005 from the Williamette Valley of Oregon, and it was a lovely, smooth and soft wine with a slight currant flavor. It went nicely with my sole. Both of my wines were selected by the Oceanaire's congenial sommalier.



I had given up my interest in a dessert in favor of the much healthier salad, but our waiter was not inclined to help me with my diet, and he offered (and I accepted) to bring me a complimentary dessert "fourth" course so Leo didn't have to eat his sweets alone. So, I chose the key lime pie, and it was an amazing thing, all whipped and light and airy, with the filling much more like a light mousse or chiffon, and prepared with graham cracker crust in a deep dish so the pieces looked almost like cheesecake.



Leo ordered the tiramisu, and my taste of it indicated a particularly nice dessert with a good balance of ingredients. He thought it was the best tiramisu he'd had.



We're very much looking forward to going back to his wonderful restaurant. Those of you outside of the Washington area might be able to find one nearby, as Oceanaire is a small chain with about a dozen restaurants in major cities nationwide.