The Prime Rib, Washington, D.C.

On the way to our afternoon meetings yesterday, my houseguest Tony took me to lunch at The Prime Rib on K Street. It turns out that The Prime Rib has extended their Restaurant Week prix fixe menu another week, so we were able to benefit from their $20.06 per person largess.

The Prime Rib is a very interesting place for many reasons, not least of which is the fact that they are one of the very few establishments in D.C. which actually requires gentlemen to wear a jacket and tie (others, such as 1789, require a jacket but not necessarily a tie). Now, most all men in D.C. dress for dinner and lunch in the higher end restaurants, probably because the law firms, lobbyists, and association offices haven't gone "business casual" here like they have in so many other parts of the country, but Prime Rib's rule is an interesting throw-back to an older era.

And an older era is exactly where we felt we were when we entered the Prime Rib—we were in a supper club from the early 1960s! The dining room has black lacquered walls with gilded architectural detailing for a French paneling and wainscoting look, and art prints featuring greyhounds and naked women with an Arts-Deco, Erté-esque feel; glass room dividers were etched with leaping greyhounds. A leopard print carpet covered the floor. Tightly spaced, white cloth-covered tables had black leather-upholstered banquettes along the exterior walls, high backed wing chairs along interior walls, and low club chairs in the center. A round console table in the center of the dining room held a very tall Chinese vase topped with a large ball of Spanish moss from which a huge display of long, silk, white cally lillies emanated. An elderly gentleman was playing a black baby grand piano with a clear lucite lid. Off to one side was a room with a large three-sided bar packed with drinkers. The maitre d' wore a tuxedo suit (not a tail coat) with a white bow tie, waiters were in tuxedos with black tie, and assistants were in black trousers and high necked black jackets ornamented with black braid. Not counting the staff, Tony was by far the youngest diner in the room and I think I was probably the second youngest (and I'm ancient).

We arrived ten minutes early for our 1:30 reservation, but were taken straightaway to our table. They gave us the regular luncheon menu and called our attention to the Restaurant Week menu on a table tent on the table. The R.W. menu had soup or salad, bread pudding or crême bruleé, and a choice of eight different entrees. We forgot to peruse the wine list since we were just drinking iced tea ($3). As we made our selections, we were given a basket of mixed breads with a large white loaf, slices of a tasty multi-grain bread, and a bunch of heart-shaped matzo crackers.

Tony started with the roasted tomato soup. It was presented in a cute white soup bowl featuring wolves' heads on each side as handles. The soup had a deep red color, and while Tony said it was good, I don't think he thought it was anything special (he tends to gush when he does). I had the house salad, a large serving of a chopped salad with romaine, cucumber, egg, pepperoncini, and grape tomatoes in a mayonnaise-based dressing scented with dijon mustard and a touch of cayenne, which I liked (the lettuce was crisp, so it had been freshly tossed).

Tony had the luncheon-sized prime rib for his main course. If that was a luncheon size, I'd hate to see what constitutes dinner size—the beef took up the entire oval plate! Rather than serving creamed grated horseradish as an accompaniment, there were thick shreds of horseradish mounded on the edge of the plate which could be used with each bite. For side dishes, he had mashed potatoes and long green beans in a tomato-green pepper espagnol sauce, both served in individual au gratin dishes. Tony said the prime rib had some unexpected bits of gristle, but was "excellent" and had a "very nice flavor."

I chose the grilled calves' liver and onions, which was absolutely delicious. They brought me a large, hot plate with a base of fully cooked onion slices and two long strips of liver which were grilled to just over medium rare. The liver was very tender and flavorful, lacking any unpleasant harshness. There's nothing better than good liver prepared at a good restaurant. For sides, I had the mashed potatoes, which were rich but rather over spiced with white pepper, I thought, and the broccoli rabe, which was oddly dry and topped with a grating of a white, semi-soft cheese.

We both had the bread pudding in bourbon sauce for dessert. It was a small serving with large bread chunks baked to crunchiness on the outside with a soft custardy inside; the bourbon sauce definitely had bourbon in it! I saw a crême bruleé at a nearby table and was happy not to have ordered that; another table had a big delicious-looking wine goblet full of fresh berries which looked wonderful, but that wasn't a Restaurant Week option.

On the whole, I liked the Prime Rib. Service was attentive and efficient and food was served in a timely manner. The only service faux pas I noticed was that our waiter refilled our tea glasses by pouring directly into the glasses on the table without picking them up and moving them to the side; he splashed a little bit of tea onto the tablecloth and on my knife. He regained points, though, for crumbing the table before the dessert course. I thought the food was good, though rather old-fashioned (that isn't necessarily a criticism, since old-fashioned can be good at times). For people wanting an old-style, elegant, steakhouse experience, I can recommend this place highly.

Penang, Washington, D.C.

Last night my Tulsa friend Tony and I went to dinner at Penang, a Malaysian restaurant on M Street in the West End. It turned out to be quite a nice place while still maintaining the affordability common to other Malaysian places in town. The restaurant is on the corner of the intersection in an interesting low building with a Mexican quasi-fast food place on the half-below ground floor and Penang half a flight up. One enters the restaurant through a dark but very contemporary feeling bar area. To the left is a small raised seating area where diners have a view of the kitchen through large windows. Straight ahead through the bar is the main dining room, where a wide variety of contemporary table and chair designs were scattered spaciously throughout the room. Pendant lights and other interesting fixtures provided soft lighting, and a window wall gave a view of the street half a floor below. We were seated at a banquette table along one wall, and I got the free-standing chair, finding it comfortable once I was in it, but it was really quite a bit too low for someone of my great height and advanced age.

Menus were several pages, featuring mostly Malaysian items, but also foods inspired by the cuisines of India, Thailand, and other Asian countries. Tony started with the seafood tomyam soup. It was a pretty red curry broth filled with interesting pieces of mushrooms and an assortment of shrimp, scallops, and squid, served in a deep square bowl. I had the Penang salad. This was a very large plate filled with an assortment of very interesting greens, including a lot of the "bitter" leaves, including raddicchio and frisee, tossed in an usual sweet-sour dressing. A few slices of tender, cooked octopus were tossed in with the greens.

For our main courses, Tony had a seafood chow fun, a large bowl of flat rice noodles with shrimp, scallops, squid, vegetables, and eggs in a whitish-clear sauce they called an "egg gravy."



My dish was fascinating: sarang burung. This was an intriguing dish where they had taken taro root, cooked it some, formed it into a sort of bowl or hat shape, and fried it so it would be able to hold other food items. Inside the taro bowl were scallops, squid, shrimp, baby corn, carrots, black mushrooms, purple onions, cashews, and red and green bell peppers and all of this sat on a scattering of crispy rice noodles with really long strands of carrot threads garnishing the whole dish. It was delicious. That fried taro root had the texture of potatoes and the lightly fried portions had a great crunch and flavor. If you've never had sarang burung, you've got to go to Penang.



It was just a quickie meal, but Penang turned out to be so nice and with such delicious food, there are several people I'm going to have to take there to experience their cuisine. Looking around the other tables, there were a lot of beautiful and unusual looking plates, so I've a lot to look forward to.

Circle Bistro, Washington, D.C.

We were supposed to do an early brunch on Sunday, so I punted morning Mass. As it turns out, we barely made it to a restaurant at two o'clock. Leo and I, joined by his friend Dale, wandered up to Washington Circle to the Circle Bistro with no reservations and managed to get seated right away. We've wanted to try Circle Bistro in the Washington Circle Hotel for some time, since it's one of the three hotel restaurants in the neighborhood owned by George Washington University, and the other two (Notti Bianche at the GWU Inn and Dish at the River Inn) are both quite enjoyable. Of course, what I'd forgotten is that while the other two share an executive chef, Circle Bistro is completely independent and different.

The Bistro has a separate street entrance from the hotel. It is simply decorated in a pleasant contemporary theme, and each table had a square glass vase with glass pebbles and a single flower head floating in the water. We were given menus which had both the Restaurant Week luncheon offerings and the regular weekend brunch menu.

Leo and Dale both started with the smoky cannellini soup with bits of duck confit garnished with a drizzle of chive oil. Cannellini are Italian white beans, and the beans had been cooked down and pressed through a food mill to produce a smooth, creamy-looking potage. Little chunks of duck confit were mixed in. Both of them enjoyed their soup quite a bit. A big basket of simple, sliced French-style bread came to the table and we all thought it was surprisingly good. Even though the first courses came quickly, there was quite a long wait for the next course.

For their main courses, Leo opted for the pan-fried trout and Dale ordered the roasted chicken breast. The trout looked very good. It was a whole trout, prepared meuniere and presented splayed open, with the body cavity filled with haricots verts (French style, long, skinny green beans) and the plate was strewn with chopped tomatoes and chopped almonds. The chicken was also well prepared, with the chicken served atop a mound of braised kale which in turn was on a bed of mashed sweet potatoes.

After my huge dinner the previous evening, I was still not ready for a big meal, so rather than doing the Restaurant Week menu, I opted to order a simple eggs Benedict from the brunch menu. My plate contained the usual two English muffin halves topped with Canadian bacon and some obviously hand-poached eggs, all covered with an unusually pale hollandaise sauce. There was also a serving of chopped fried potatoes and a huge serving of undressed salad. The eggs Benedict was good enough, though I noted the hollandaise and fried potatoes were almost cold; while I would not have used it, catsup for the fried potatoes was not offerred.

While I didn't get one, desserts came with the Restaurant Week lunches. Leo had a very pretty and unique apple tart with macademia ice cream and caramel sauce served on a cookie base.



Dale had the bittersweet chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, marshmallow sauce, and a sprinkling of candied walnuts. While I liked the apple tart, I thought the cake was rather dry and a bit overcooked.



Incidentally, Leo's mimosa only cost $6 and my iced tea only $2.

The overall impression? Well, first keep in mind that the Circle Bistro doesn't charge anywhere near the prices of any of the other high end places we visited during Restaurant Week. Remembering that, the food was servicable, flavorful, and adequate, with the occasional unexpected gem. They had some kitchen issues which need to be resolved. On the whole, though, the price was right, we got full, and there's no reason we would avoid Circle Bistro in the future.